Jacquard N°94 Speciale Palio di Legnano

This issue is entirely dedicated to the Palio di Legnano with which the Fondazione Lisio has had close ties since 2019.

This opening article analyses how the expression of a community that is showcased in a historical reenactment, in this case the Battle of Legnano fought by the Lombard League against Frederick Barbarossa on 29 May 1176, is much more than a legacy to hand down. Since May 29, 1876, a Carosello Storico (Historical Pageant) has been held, inspiring the Legnano community to undertake scientific research into the life, costumes, and traditions of the 12th century in pursuit of historical accuracy.

The Permanent Commission of Costumes, founded in 1992, is the body that controls and authorises the new projects that the individual contrade (city wards) gradually develop. In addition to showcasing the various activities in which the Commission is involved and organises, the second presentation features a selection of costumes designed for the 2024 Palio.

Two students taking part in the internship for the two-year “Historical Tailoring, Costume for the Performing Arts” course held by the Fondazione Lisio from 2021-2023, recreated Hildegard von Bingen’s dress for the Contrada Sant’Ambrogio. Here, we can see the steps taken through the methodology applied, as well as the challenges encountered in sourcing, designing, and creating all the components of the garment.

The professional development from this internship resulted in a new project for our students: the creation of the Castellana’s (Chatelaine) dress for the Contrada San Magno to which they contributed by offering interesting descriptions and considerations.

The Historical Archive of the Permanent Commission of Costumes of the Palio di Legnano, currently being inventoried and studied, is undoubtedly an important source of documents on the extensive collection, which is supplemented with information and footnotes that clarify the history of both the object in question and the Palio as a whole. A new discovery has unearthed another link between the Fondazione Lisio and the Legnano Pageant which consists of the use of the ‘Charlemagne’ lampas at the beginning of the 1990s for the Castellana’s dress of the Contrada Legnarello.

We can also follow the theme of reconstructions in another article about this year’s project to create a pair of  Manikalia, i.e. cuffs made of silk fabric with a leather inner part, decorated with embroidery. The research and study of different sources compared with the cultural material sources led to a focus on the methodology to be applied and the project to be implemented.  

The final important contribution is dedicated to the Historical Photographic Archive that preserves the memory of the history of the Palio di Legnano and documents its evolution starting from the 1930s to present day.