Jacquard N°86

2nd issue of the year 2020, July - December

This issue opens with a 16th-century palio banner sewn of solid-colour cut velvet, conserved at the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo in Siena. These  creations can be sorted according to function as awards and as votive offerings; their history, documentary and material evidence, and comparisons combine to help us understand  their importance in the past and in terms of what they still represent for the city.

Rome’s Museo delle Civiltà, instead, is home to a selection of Chinese textiles  from the more extensive collection amassed by Henry of Bourbon-Parma, Count of Bardi (1851–1906), during his 28-month round-the-world trip in 1887–1889. Partly scattered and partly divided up among various public and private institutions, the collection is still of great ethnographic interest and will constitute the foundational nucleus of the future Museo d’Arte Orientale of Venice. The article in this issue presents a review of a small series of textile materials, the art and workmanship of which are typical of the imperial China of the mid-to-late 19th century.

The monthly magazine Fiamma Viva, of clearly Christian matrix, debuted in 1921 in Milan. Its pages delineated a model for young women that had a transversal appeal for a broad spectrum of female readers. The fashion column reflects a dualism balanced between modernity and conservatism, between elegant Parisian stylings and a more sober national couture promoting fashion for any pocketbook.

Card weaving, a technique that developed over a vast area from the Mediterranean to the Near and Far East, is discussed in an article that compares the points of view of two ethnologists, Arnold Van Gennep and André Leroi-Gourhan.

Finally, we  listen to the voices of two master weavers. The first is the young artist/artisan Elena Sueri who, at her workshop, combines weaving and tailoring skills with passion for her work and her materials and a keen eye for the environment; the second is artist Barbara Jansen, for whom textile art is a tool for penetrating and exploring the world of nature.

And we are closing with two celebrations of Doretta Davanzo Poli, a pillar of textile studies who will always be with us in memory.

Acquista Jacquard N°86

2nd issue of the year 2020, July - December

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Digital articles available for purchase

The Palio of the Sienese

Fabiana Bari

The collection of Henry of Bourbon-Parma, Count of Bardi 81851-1906). Chinese textiles at the Museo delle Civiltà of Rome

Filippo Comisi

Fiamma Viva and the 1920s: Faschion an Ideological Contaminations for Young Christian Women

Raffaella Calgaro

Ribbons and Strings. The Tangled Threads of a Hybrid Technique, or Card Weaving, According to Arnold Van Gennep e André Leroi-Gourhan

Flavia Carraro

"Young Artists/Artisans in Their Own Words"

Elena Sueri

Jacquard Weaving in Florence: Inspired by Nature. An Artistic Exploration on a Historical Jacquard Loom

Barbara Jansen

To Doretta Davanzo Poli: A Tribute

Stefano Franzo

In Memory of Doretta Davanzo Poli

Paola D'Alena

Other numbers of magazine

Jacquard N°73

First issue of the year 2014, January - June

>> Single articles to purchase 

Jacquard N°85

1st issue of the year 2020, January-July

>> Single articles to purchase 

Jacquard N°84 - Speciale 30 anni

2nd issue of the year 2019, July - December

>> Single articles to purchase 

Jacquard Magazine, 2022 Subscription

The 2022 Jacquard Magazine subscription is available here at a reduced price. The subscription includes two issues of the current year (six-monthly magazine), the first issue is released by June (nr.89), the second by December (nr.90).

The magazines will be sent directly to your address. 

You can also pay by bank transfer. Write to us or follow the instructions here - Contact us